Winemaker and rugby player Gérard Bertrand on the best 6am steaks, nightlife and coastal action in this relaxed Mediterranean town

Our food scene revolves around Les Halles de Narbonne, a splendid covered market and architectural gem from the late 19th century. It is open every day and is everyone’s favourite meeting place. More than a market, it has wine bars, bistros and tapas counters, plus fishmongers where you can feast on plump oysters and shrimps. I go there every Sunday to do my shopping. When I played rugby for Narbonne, the “third half” would sometimes carry on until morning, when we would arrive at 6am for a steak. And you’ll still find this ambience in Les Halles – along with great grilled meat – at Chez Bebelle.